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Five wedding outfits for just £29!

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From the hugely expensive dress to the imported flowers, the average wedding is a bank-breaking, planet-wrecking affair. There is a greener, less stressful approach, if you make the most of charity shops, hedgerows and car boot sales

In some ways, the term “ethical wedding” is as contradictory as, say, “sexy footbath” or “welcome ingrown hair”. And yet, after years of railing against the marital-industrial complex, I still wanted to give it a go. When, in a rather unlikely move, after seven years of cohabitation and nearly five years of co-parenting, my partner and I decided to get married, we were both keen to keep it as environmentally friendly, inexpensive and ideologically sound as we could. If you’re expecting rings woven from toenail clippings and a wedding meal pulled out of a wheelie bin, I’m sorry to disappoint. But the whole thing did cost us around the same as my parents’ wedding in 1992 and about the only thing we bought new was the wine. And we had that delivered by bike.

Our wedding came in two parts. First, there was the legal bit: since the first few months of our relationship played out almost entirely in places located along the 38 bus route, it seemed fitting to do this in Hackney town hall in east London. So my parents, partner, son and I all got the train from Oxford and on to the tube carrying our wedding gear in rucksacks and holdalls. I got changed in the toilets of a cinema over the road, my ex-boyfriend and his wife were included in our Covid-safe list of 14 guests, my son lay down in the middle of the carpet during the ceremony and chatted loudly to himself to stave off his inevitable four-year-old boredom and I wore an outfit I’d made for a grand total of £8. Including underwear.

Inside the scout hut, decked out for the wedding …
Inside the scout hut, decked out for the wedding … Photograph: Al Kinley-Jones

The average price of a wedding dress in the UK – according to an army of websites specifically dedicated to the noble art of fleecing their readers – is somewhere in the region of £1,300. I made five wedding outfits for a grand total of £29. The first, for our legal section, was made of pale apricot fabric I bought from a market in east London: I sewed three gold hearts down the front – one for my partner, one for my son and one for me. I made a veil out of a £1 offcut and a headband from a charity shop. My shoes cost £1 from a car boot sale. After the ceremony, we all walked around the corner to eat pizza and drink booze in a nearby pub, before getting the train back to Oxford.

The second part of the wedding took place three weeks later and was a slightly bigger affair. By which I mean we spent more than £100 and it didn’t end at 5pm. I was keen to get married somewhere we could cycle to, as we are both virgins who can’t drive. And anyway, since, as a fan of breathing and moving safely through the world, I would much prefer people walked, cycled or got the bus whenever they can. Which is how I ended up emailing a scout troop that has a hall down by the river, next to an allotment, where my friend Sharon learned to canoe in the 1970s.

It was perfect. There was a field to camp in, a kitchen, a giant bell (because you just never know), a large pink windsurfing sail hung on the wall, toilets, a kitchen full of mismatched tea towels, and the whole thing opened out on to a shallow, silty stretch of the Thames, overhung with willow trees and blackberries. They let us rent it for two days for less than £1,000 and their only real request was that my partner and I consider volunteering as scout leaders. I decorated the tables with bed sheets and curtains, plates, glasses, cutlery and vases all bought from the charity shops within cycling distance of our house. I stuffed the vases with grasses and wildflowers picked the day before from beside the towpath and my friend hung the room about with beautiful coloured decorations used a few weeks earlier at a mutual friend’s memorial.

Nell Frizzell in one of her wedding outfits. Photograph: Al Kinley-Jones

Just by coming to our wedding and eating off those tables, each guest probably inadvertently donated about £2 to either Emmaus, Oxfam, Mercy in Action, the Shaw Trust or our local children’s hospice, Helen and Douglas House. Did this mean spending the days before and after the wedding kneeling in my garden, in 34C heat, washing what felt like 1,000 forks and wine glasses in a bucket? It did. But was it worth it to take the whole lot back to those various charity shops, to be sold on again? I think so.

For this wedding, I wanted outfits. Several outfits. I made a white linen dress with the words “An Honest Woman” stitched across the front. I made a veil by recycling that same charity shop headband and a strip of fabric bought from my local high street just a few doors down from Oxford’s only sex shop. The night before the wedding, I was to be found refreshing the BBC weather page like a compulsive gambler on a fruit machine – willing the outcome to be different while knowing, deep down, that I was doomed. The forecast for our wedding day, and indeed the preceding three days, was 35C. My sister got married in India in a cooler temperature. And so, with just a few hours to go, I decided to cut up one of our white bedsheets and turn it into a voluminous, short tent of a dress, in which I could sweat merrily without actually sticking to the furniture or, I hoped, passing out. I’d bought a white bikini on eBay for £4, realised it showed about 10% of my pubes and so quickly knocked up a white lace cover-up from a piece of material I’d originally thought might work as a cake cover to keep away the flies. Finally, inspired in no small part by Gram Parsons’ nudie suit, I made a pair of trousers and a top covered in applique flowers, hearts and our initials. The fabric came from a local charity that salvages cloth and other materials from businesses that would otherwise end up in landfill. It cost me about £10 and took so long to hand sew all those bloody petals that I listened to the entire audiobook of Jaws while I did it.

The food, provided by the social enterprise Damascus Rose. Photograph: Hugh Warwick

A party isn’t a wedding unless you have food and so, after toying with the idea of catering for all 100 guests on my own (until I pictured myself standing in a scout kitchen, in a pair of sports shorts, surrounded by bowls of cucumbers and bags of rice as people started to arrive) I approached Damascus Rose – a social enterprise supporting refugee women in Oxford. We ate delicious Middle Eastern food, served up by a Syrian woman who, rather out of the blue, asked if she could make a speech halfway through the meal. My mother arrived from Cardiff with three layers of orange and polenta cake, which she then decorated with blackberries picked from the nature reserve behind my house and a figurine my sister made of my partner and me in our new inflatable canoe. Another friend made three sensational cakes as a gift and, standing behind a folding table in a wet bikini (like many of the guests, I’d just been swimming), I served them to our overheated and shade-hungry guests. It was one of my favourite parts of the whole day.

The wedding cake, baked by the bride’s mother and topped with foraged blackberries.
The wedding cake, baked by the bride’s mother and topped with foraged blackberries. Photograph: Al Kinley-Jones

When you are chaotic, ambivalent about weddings and keen to do things ethically, there are inevitably things that get forgotten or missed. The 50 jam jars I had been studiously accumulating and washing for the last six months to fill with tea lights in the evening remained hidden somewhere in a bag. The sweltering temperature inside the hall during the meal became so unbearable that neither I nor my mother got to make our speeches (quite rightly, everyone burst out of the building and into the river after about two hours of slow roasting). I forgot my bike lights and so had to recruit a host of cyclists to head up the hill and collect the chips and mushy peas that were served when the sun went down.

But, in the end, I think we pulled it off. A friend’s mum – a former midwife and staunch feminist, who is training to be a funeral celebrant – brought us together for a little informal ceremony of our own making where, against my every intention, I cried. A group of children played handbells borrowed from another married couple. Two old friends offered to take photos during the day and did so, at times, in their swimming shorts. And my husband and I spent our wedding night in a tent, sleeping on either side of an inflatable mattress on which our four-year-old son slowly rotated like a catherine wheel, having forgotten to brush our teeth.

So, is it possible to have an environmentally friendly, ethically sound, inexpensive wedding? Only with hard work, a lot of help from loved ones and by turning a blind eye to mess. You know, kind of like a marriage.

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Zara advert accused of resembling Gaza images

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Zara is facing a backlash about an advertising campaign which some people claim resembles images from the Israel-Gaza war.

The Advertising Standards Authority (ASA) said it had received 50 complaints about the social media campaign called “The Jacket”.

One image shows the model holding a mannequin wrapped in what appears to be white plastic.

The BBC has contacted Zara for comment but the company has not responded.

In a series of images, the model is pictured against a background of cracked stones, damaged statues and broken plasterboard.

Some on social media have suggested they are similar to images emerging from Gaza following Israeli bombing in retaliation for the 7 October attack by Hamas when 1,200 people were killed.

The Hamas-run health ministry in Gaza has said Israel has killed about 18,000 people.

The campaign for Zara’s Atelier line is no longer on the company’s app or website.

Some images appear to have been removed from Zara’s Instagram account, though others remain.

In the comments several users call for a boycott of the firm.

One Zara shop in Spain has a window display with some props similar to those used in the campaign.

The company describes its thinking behind “The Jacket” as “an exercise in concentrated design that is conceived to showcase the finest aspects of Zara’s creative and manufacturing capabilities, Zara Atelier offers one garment, six ways – and with unlimited possibilities”.

A spokesperson for the ASA said: “We’ve received 50 complaints about this ad. Complainants argue that the imagery references the current Israel-Hamas conflict and is offensive.”

The spokesperson added that the ASA was reviewing the complaints but was not currently investigating the advert.

Recently, M&S apologised after the retailer was accused of posting an Instagram photo of Christmas party hats in the colours of the Palestinian flag on fire.

The ASA said that it had received 116 complaints about the image.

It said that following a review, it determined that M&S had not broken ASA rules and “no additional investigation was warranted”.

Nevertheless, M&S said it had “removed the post following feedback and we apologise for any unintentional hurt caused”.

Zara’s Spanish parent company, Inditex, is scheduled to announce its latest quarterly results on Wednesday.

— Reports /TrainViral

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Fashion

Gigi Hadid Returns for Self-Portrait

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GIGI, PART DEUX: Gigi Hadid’s collaboration with Self-Portrait continues, as she appears in the brand’s latest fall 2023 campaign shot in Paris by British photographer Tyrone Lebon and styled by Marie Chaix.

The contemporary fashion label, which counts Kate Middleton, Naomi Campbell, Jennifer Coolidge and Blackpink among its fans, had worked with Hadid in London and New York on previous campaigns, and according to Han Chong, brand founder and creative director, “it felt only right that we join her in Paris for our latest campaign shoot against a backdrop renowned for elegance and romance.”

Gigi Hadid stars in Self-Portrait fall 2023 campaign
Gigi Hadid stars in Self-Portrait’s fall 2023 campaign. COURTESY OF SELF-PORTRAIT

In one of the shots from the campaign, Hadid poses behind a grand classical wrought iron balcony while wearing a fuchsia tweed jacket with a matching bar top and a pleated skirt from the brand’s fall 2023 collection. In a separate image, Hadid gazes down at the camera in a sequined asymmetric aquamarine dress.

Commenting on the latest campaign, Chong praised Hadid as “everything the modern Self-Portrait woman stands for — free, spirited, and joyful.”

“Being able to shoot in Paris is always such a dream…it’s one of my favorite cities in the world, filled with so much charm and magic. And to be able to shoot with the Self-Portrait team who have become such incredible partners and friends, made it an even more memorable experience,” Hadid added.

Launching together with the release of the campaign, the fall 2023 collection will hit stores worldwide from Tuesday.

For fall, Chong offered a balanced collection that caters to both the sensual new vibe, as well as those who buy into straightforward pretty, and elegant outfits for their everyday lives.

Standouts in the collection included sequinned, embellished high-glam evening options, many of which came with sleeves, a detail that’s appreciated in the modest community.

The denim pieces were cut for a younger and cooler audience, while the abundant supply of tweed jackets and coordinated bra tops and skirts have already won over fans including Selena Gomez, Princess Beatrice and Zhao Liying, Self-Portrait’s first Chinese brand ambassador. — TIANWEI ZHANG

JUMPING THE GUN: Kirsten Dunst couldn’t help herself from leaking the news about her upcoming collaboration with Coach when actress and comedian Ayo Edebiri was spotted wearing pieces from the Observed by Us x Coach line.

The actress shared the news on Instagram with an image showing Edebiri wearing a white top with dinosaurs on it.

A look from Coach x Observed By Us.
A look from Coach x Observed by Us. COURTESY OF COACH.

The collection, which will be released to the rest of the world on Wednesday, features ready-to-wear, bags, footwear and accessories printed and embellished with original, hand-drawn illustrations by Jessica Herschko, a Los Angeles-based illustrator and designer of Observed by Us, and Dunst.

Coach creative director Stuart Vevers worked with the duo to create the line of T-shirts, hoodies, floral dresses and jeans whose inspiration was based on pieces found in Dunst’s closet. Key pieces include a wool pointelle crop top, overalls and a straw hat — each printed and embellished with original, hand-drawn illustrations by Herschko. Additionally, the pieces feature “storypatches,” a signature of Coach, in Herschko’s handwriting that tell the stories of illustrations in the collection.

Coach x Observed by Us
The collection will be sold at Coach stores and online.

“Creating this collection with Kirsten and Jessica was delightful,” said Vevers. “We got to celebrate our shared love of imagination and playfulness. Kirsten, and her style, have often been an inspiration for me. So to design alongside her and Jessica — and to blend their vivid storytelling and color with our own American heritage design language and craftsmanship — was really inspiring.”

Vevers added that he was introduced to the duo by a mutual friend and the collaboration “evolved quite naturally from there. I was immediately drawn to Jessica’s illustrations and their imaginative use of color and playful themes, but also to the way Kirsten and Jessica joyfully celebrate the beauty in the everyday — a theme I love to explore also. The collection is charming and pretty. The idiosyncratic embellishments feel both personal and expressive. There’s also a found quality and vintage feel that adds a sense of ease and cool.”

Vevers said what he likes most about working with other brands is that it allows him to try something new. “Every collaboration I’ve done is different,” he said. “I think that’s what I enjoy most about collaboration — it’s about trying something new, and working with someone else can give me a chance to challenge myself. Whether it’s with heroes of mine, contemporary artists or iconic imagery it’s also about an element of surprise. Something I’ve not done before.”

“We started Observed by Us to create clothing and other items with images that evoke a special, happy feeling and a sense of appreciation for both the natural and the man made,” said Herschko. “It was very fun to collaborate with Coach because, much like us, they see a world of possibility in the small details and have the ability to execute that perfectly.”

The collection will range in price from $20 to $595 and will be sold on the Coach website as well as in select Coach stores. — JEAN E. PALMIERI

Reports /TrainViral/

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Tommy Bahama Marks 30 Years

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Four hundred guests will attend the spring 2024 show, where models will walk the runway in tropical print bikinis, shirts and seersucker suits. Yes, there will be Beach Boys on the soundtrack, as well as Beyoncé, and cocktails will be served — grapefruit basil martinis, which will be the featured drink at the new Tommy Bahama Miramonte Resort & Spa opening later this year in Indian Wells, California.

An unlikely product of the Pacific Northwest, Tommy Bahama was founded in 1992 by Bob Emfield and Tony Margolis, two garment business veterans who met in Seattle in the ’70s, when they were sales reps for Brittania Sportswear Ltd. The company is named after a character they invented after buying houses on Florida’s Gulf Coast, where they dreamed of living life as one long weekend.

Now owned by Oxford Industries, Tommy Bahama — which delivered top-line growth of 5 percent in the first quarter — has become a lifestyle empire that extends from coast to coast and now includes clothing and licensed accessories, home products such as rugs, bedding and upholstered furniture, restaurants — and soon, a hotel.

There’s a unified vision for it all.

For spring 2024, St. Barths was the seasonal inspiration for the 60-member design team based in Seattle, who travel to vacation locations for research trips. On the mood board are photos of the island’s red roofs, sunshine yellow mini Mokes, leafy patios and deep blue infinity pools.

“When I first started, the men’s, women’s and accessories teams didn’t really connect very much on the beginning of the season, and they all looked very different. So we started creating a seasonal destination,” explained design director Bradley O’Brien, who joined in 2014 after a decade at Ralph Lauren, four years at Old Navy, six at Lands’ End and four at Sperry Top-Sider. “We look at everything, from the architecture to the culture to the food and the artisans. We get a lot of inspiration from handicrafts, and flora and fauna of the particular area. We take lots and lots of photos and pull together concepts for the art department that really influences the color and the prints.”

The men’s and women’s collection will feature lots of novelty dresses, including a new Johnny Collar style; linen suiting; seersucker tops, skorts, bombers and blazers; swimwear, and stretch denim with sun protection. (Tommy Bahama has seals of approval from the Skin Cancer Foundation, and has raised more than $500,000 for the organization in its stores.)

“The great part about a runway is it’s not necessarily the real way, and so you can put things out there and style them in a way that makes people think, ‘Oh, I never thought of that.’ Like pairing a linen suit with a bikini,” she said.

The brand’s customer demographic is age 35 to 60, with the sweet spot in their 40s and 50s, and the women’s business is now growing faster than men’s. As a percentage of sales over the last five years, women’s has grown 53 percent, while men’s has grown 22 percent.

Dresses and knits are the two biggest categories and, surprisingly, women’s suiting is not far behind. ‘We’ve always done linen suiting for men and we can’t even keep it in stock now. There’s definitely a trend happening in women’s as well all around the blazer and the suit. So this is the first time that we’ll be offering really great suiting for her as well.”

Performancewear under the Island Zone franchise has also been key to the brand’s success, and the spring 2024 collection is taking inspiration from “court and course,” with clothing that can be worn from the golf course to the pickleball court.

“The fabrics keep you dry, they stretch, they’ve got great details, pockets and things that help you stay active,” said O’Brien, adding that the Palm Coast Polo is a top seller.

The brand has also hit with a woven fabric that’s perforated, used for camp shirts. “It looks like a silk camp shirt but it performs really well, is super lightweight and stretches and keeps you dry. It’s been so popular, we’re introducing it for women. That’s what’s fun about being a dual gender brand.”

Spring will also mark the debut of a performance seersucker fabric, alongside a traditional woven one, leaning into fashion’s return to prep and the old money trend.

“We absolutely look at the runway in the beginning of the season, and scour through some of the shows of the tried and true brands. Then we put it through the Tommy Bahama filters.…Our guest is not about fast fashion but wants to be relevant. And so if puff sleeves are definitely trending, we might put a puff sleeve on something that we already know she knows and loves in a fabrication that she already has in her closet to get her to buy into a new version.”

Tommy Bahama Spring 2024

What are the Tommy Bahama filters?

“We talk about quality, artistry and craftsmanship, and especially in the imagery, we always want to show up looking like sun and sea and sky and sand. And then when it comes down to the product itself, it has to be effortless. Sometimes things will have one or two details too many.…You just want to be able to throw something on and feel super comfortable and relaxed,” O’Brien said. “And then the last thing that we say is we always want to have ‘a sprinkle of sand.’ It’s just a cute detail that makes the customer smile.”

For some fresh inspiration, the brand has partnered with the New York-based nonprofit Fashion Scholarship Fund on a design contest, and on Wednesday will award three $15,000 scholarships to students whose work will be included in the 2024 Tommy Bahama Artist Series.

“They’ll be representing their artwork and will have their apparel on mannequins, and everybody will be able to meet them and understand the inspiration,” O’Brien said. “Coming from the East Coast, and having a career at brands that are household names, I wanted Tommy Bahama to be a household name. And what better way than to gain awareness and recognition with these students? We just launched an internship program as well…so the talent of tomorrow wants to come and work here, too.”

Tommy Bahama Spring 2024

One of the female executive’s proudest achievements has been elevating Tommy Bahama’s women’s profile. “It’s nice to see the perception is shifting,” said O’Brien, who favors the brand’s dresses, jeans and flirty tops for work. “And when you’re in stores, you also see families coming in. So it’s definitely a brand the entire family engages with.”

That’s thanks also to the Tommy Bahama Marlin Bars, which debuted way ahead of the latest wave of fashion-fronted restaurants like the Polo Bar and Tiffany Blue Box Café. Three more Marlin Bars are opening on the horizon.

“We do see that the stores that are attached to those, the sales are really, really strong in those doors. So the guest likes to come in and enjoy being a part of the brand and then shop it as well,” she said.

Soon they can also be able to live it at the Tommy Bahama Miramonte Resort & Spa, opening in November outside of Palm Springs, California, with 215 rooms, three pools, and a 12,000-square-foot spa.

“That’s going to be a big moment,” O’Brien said. “I was lucky enough to work with our home wallpaper and fabric licensee to help pick out all the fabrics and wallpapers for each of the suites and the rooms. And we are going to have our artists go down and create signature murals for them.”

The hotel property will feature a 1,200-square-foot retail store, even though it’s within miles of Tommy Bahama stores in both Palm Springs and Palm Desert. O’Brien said, “We’re thinking of it more as a lab, where we can test elevated product.”

Tommy for the big 4.0.

Reports /TrainViral/

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