Fashion
Celine’s New Paris Boutique, Gucci’s Workwear
Celine’s Space: Celine has unveiled its new boutique on Rue Saint-Honoré.
Hedi Slimane’s brutalist vision is brought to life with sleek brass and slick marble, a wall of mirrors and art installations. Located at 384 Rue Saint-Honoré, the shop is devoted to accessories, fragrance, leather goods and high jewelry, sitting catty corner from its ready-to-wear boutique on Rue Duphot.
The smaller space located at 390 has housed the brand’s haute parfumerie since 2019. Celine took over the old Loewe space next door to create a showcase for its classic Triomphe bags, leather goods and jewelry. In Slimane’s rock-‘n’-roll style, a sparkly gold version of the bag is exclusive to this location, as well as made-to-order pieces.
The new address marks the brand’s sixth stand-alone store in Paris, alongside spots in four of the city’s department stores. The brand says it is embarking on an expansion plan for 2023, and will activate several pop-ups worldwide. There are 180 Celine boutiques across the globe.
Up a gleaming curved staircase, the second floor houses a private salon with cozy chairs and a fireplace for VIP clients. In Slimane style, the boutique showcases several stunning artworks — paintings by Will Boone, sculptures from Ian L.C. Swordy and carved wooden pieces from Augustas Serapinas dot the space.
The 1,400-square-foot space has double-height windows, and beams of sunlight dance off the art pieces Slimane selected. Hanging in the main room is a version of Virginia Overton’s Skylight Gems, a mobile made of three glass ornaments, commissioned by Slimane after he saw the original in New York’s LaGuardia airport.
Taking cues from Art Deco and French Modernism, the now-connected boutiques sourced their black marble floors from France’s Pyrenees mountains, and Slimane selected several brutalist slabs and stumps for seating and decor.
The opening on Dec. 2 was timed just ahead of the brand’s big return to the womenswear runway. Celine closed Paris Men’s Fashion Week in June with a unisex show. It will stage a show at Los Angeles’ Wiltern Theater Thursday to present its fall 2023 collection, giving the brand a jump on February’s fashion season. Whether Celine will present at Paris Men’s Fashion Week in January has yet to be decided. — Rhonda Richford
Gucci Workwear: Gucci is continuing its streak of collaborations through its experimental online space, Gucci Vault.
The Italian design house said Thursday it is teaming with Dickies to offer a collection of elevated workwear-inspired pieces. The collection, designed by Gucci creative director Alessandro Michele, celebrates Dickies’ 100-year history in the workwear space.
The eight-piece collection offers reimagined versions of Dickies’ iconic styles, including the Eisenhower jacket and the 874 Work Pants, which in the ‘90s evolved from its workwear roots and became popular among streetwear enthusiasts. The pieces are updated for the Gucci collaboration to feature metallic stud embellishments.
The collection offers cropped and regular lengths of the Eisenhower jacket, the 874 Work Pants in two shorts versions and a work shirt.
Gucci launched its Vault concept in September 2021 as an online store that offers vintage and archival pieces as well as limited-edition collaborations. This year, Gucci has teamed with the likes of Luar, ERL, Wales Bonner, Vans and Martine Rose for the Vault.
“Vault is a project that I have worked on with dedication and care,” Michele told WWD in February. “It is an open laboratory in which to introduce new chemical agents to continue the experiment. For me, it’s a source of immense happiness that aims to put diverse energies into circulation and to celebrate my love for objects.”
The Dickies collection comes just a few weeks after Gucci announced Michele would be exiting the brand after an eight-year tenure as creative director.
The Gucci Vault Dickies collection is available to purchase on the Gucci Vault website and ranges in price from $985 to $7,410. — Layla Ilchi
Celebrating Marfmas: Dover Street Market has teamed up with Marfa to celebrate their new book, “A Marfa Christmas With John Waters.”
Produced by Maroffice, with curation, design and production by Alexandra Gordienko, Julia Monsell and Jodie Hill, and words by Ross Aston, the book features actors and behind-the-scenes collaborators who have worked with the 76-year-old filmmaker over the years and includes shoots and interviews, letters and rare archive imagery. Each interview is housed within a dreamed-up narrative set at one of Waters’ annual Christmas parties, which were iconic and held at his Maryland home. While the event may not be real, the dialogue is meant to all be true to life.
To celebrate the annual U.S. Christmas tour, “A John Waters Christmas,” the book will launch with installations at Dover Street Market New York and Los Angeles on Friday and remain for the duration of Waters’ tour period. These spaces pay homage to the famed Christmas scene in Waters’ “Female Trouble,” with the addition of a giant cockroach relaxing in front of a TV set watching a Marfilm of Waters opening up presents, shot in Baltimore.
To coincide with the release of the book, a gift guide of Dover Street Market products will be available online and in-store at Dover Street Market New York and Los Angeles. Dubbed “25 Days of Marfmas,” each day features gifts such as Prada gloves, Marfa’s “I saw Mummy Kissing Santa’s Ass” T-shirt, a drawing book by David Hochney, a Rose Bakery gift basket, an Alaïa Le Coeur bag, a Play Comme des Garçons striped shirt, and finally on the 25th day, “A Marfa Christmas With John Waters” book. Festive Marfa merchandise including stickers, T-shirts, posters and Christmas cards round out the offering. — Lisa Lockwood
Gottmik Signs: United Talent Agency has signed Gottmik.
The 25-year-old, born Kade Gottlieb in Arizona, rose to fame on “RuPaul’s Drag Race,” tying for third place on the 13th season. Based in Los Angeles, he became the first openly trans man to compete on the hit reality show.
“I’m looking forward to working with UTA’s dynamic team to help complete my ambitions in fashion, literature, performance, music, touring and more,” Gottmik told WWD in a statement. “They understand the unique spaces for drag artistry and I’m glad to have one place that can do it all.”
With 1.4 million Instagram followers, Gottmik was among 12 LGBTQ creatives featured on the cover of British Vogue’s August 2022 issue celebrating 50 years of Pride. He also recently graced the cover of Gay Times and was tapped for Versace’s newest holiday campaign. A drag performer and makeup artist (with a degree in product development from the Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising), Gottmik has worked with the likes of Cindy Crawford, Heidi Klum and Paris Hilton. He’s collaborated in music, doing the makeup for the celebrities who appear in Taylor Swift’s 2019 single “You Need to Calm Down” and was behind Lil Nas X’s playful transformation as Nicki Minaj for Halloween. In September, Gottmik himself appeared in a music video for Sam Smith and Kim Petras’ hit song “Unholy.”
In a joint statement, UTA digital talent agent Pranav Mandavia and vice president of ventures Nick Axelrod said: “As the first trans man to compete on ‘RuPaul’s Drag Race’ and featured on the cover of British Vogue, Gottmik is a trailblazer who is quickly becoming one of the most recognizable artists in the business. We are excited to be a part of his journey and bolster UTA’s representation of drag artists.” — Ryma Chikhoune
Fantasy Tree: Luxury boutique hotel Riggs unveiled its holiday tree Thursday night with a festive holiday cocktail with the jewelry designer Alexis Bittar.
The soaring 18-foot-tall creation is reflective of the designer’s style: oversized swans perched on the branches of soft pink feathers, pearl garlands and high-shine tinsel, which flutter as the lobby doors swing open in the Riggs’ historic lobby. “For me it’s always about blending the world of accessories with fantasy, sculpture and art,” the designer told WWD.
Tiny message-in-the-bottle quotes that are tucked between the branches from famous women, including Eleanor Roosevelt, pay homage to the hotel’s famed First Lady Suites.
Speaking of first ladies, Bittar shared his last tree design was back in 2014 for the White House, commissioned by First Lady Michelle Obama. “That one was a little more traditional” he laughed, referring to the more provocative nature of this tree, which includes round breast ornaments in varying flesh tones, which he named “Menagerie A Tree.”
“This tree is really focused on femininity and play on surrealism and fantasy, with the swans and the tinsel and quotes from famous women that I love, including Michelle and Nina Simone. Tucked into the tree is where it gets a little naughty,” he said with a wink, referring to the nipple ornaments.
Since his reentrance to fashion after buying back his brand last year from Brooks Brothers, Bittar has shown a commitment to inclusivity, especially focused on women. A longtime favorite of style icons from Iris Apfel to Beyoncé, Bittar also shared his excitement seeing a new generation adorned in his work. Activist and singer Lizzo was decked out in Alexis Bittar headpieces and jewelry to the People’s Choice Awards earlier this week. “I was getting the pictures of Lizzo as she was getting dressed and it’s always incredible.”
Also for the holiday season, Bittar and Riggs will offer a special “Gem Service Menu” to hotel guests. A nod to the hotel’s heritage as a former bank, a safety deposit box of Alexis Bittar pieces will be kept on-site for a jewelry-on-demand where guests can purchase a last-minute piece before a festive fête or a holiday gift while staying at Riggs. – Ritu Upadhyay
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GIGI, PART DEUX: Gigi Hadid’s collaboration with Self-Portrait continues, as she appears in the brand’s latest fall 2023 campaign shot in Paris by British photographer Tyrone Lebon and styled by Marie Chaix.
The contemporary fashion label, which counts Kate Middleton, Naomi Campbell, Jennifer Coolidge and Blackpink among its fans, had worked with Hadid in London and New York on previous campaigns, and according to Han Chong, brand founder and creative director, “it felt only right that we join her in Paris for our latest campaign shoot against a backdrop renowned for elegance and romance.”
In one of the shots from the campaign, Hadid poses behind a grand classical wrought iron balcony while wearing a fuchsia tweed jacket with a matching bar top and a pleated skirt from the brand’s fall 2023 collection. In a separate image, Hadid gazes down at the camera in a sequined asymmetric aquamarine dress.
Commenting on the latest campaign, Chong praised Hadid as “everything the modern Self-Portrait woman stands for — free, spirited, and joyful.”
“Being able to shoot in Paris is always such a dream…it’s one of my favorite cities in the world, filled with so much charm and magic. And to be able to shoot with the Self-Portrait team who have become such incredible partners and friends, made it an even more memorable experience,” Hadid added.
Launching together with the release of the campaign, the fall 2023 collection will hit stores worldwide from Tuesday.
For fall, Chong offered a balanced collection that caters to both the sensual new vibe, as well as those who buy into straightforward pretty, and elegant outfits for their everyday lives.
Standouts in the collection included sequinned, embellished high-glam evening options, many of which came with sleeves, a detail that’s appreciated in the modest community.
The denim pieces were cut for a younger and cooler audience, while the abundant supply of tweed jackets and coordinated bra tops and skirts have already won over fans including Selena Gomez, Princess Beatrice and Zhao Liying, Self-Portrait’s first Chinese brand ambassador. — TIANWEI ZHANG
JUMPING THE GUN: Kirsten Dunst couldn’t help herself from leaking the news about her upcoming collaboration with Coach when actress and comedian Ayo Edebiri was spotted wearing pieces from the Observed by Us x Coach line.
The actress shared the news on Instagram with an image showing Edebiri wearing a white top with dinosaurs on it.
The collection, which will be released to the rest of the world on Wednesday, features ready-to-wear, bags, footwear and accessories printed and embellished with original, hand-drawn illustrations by Jessica Herschko, a Los Angeles-based illustrator and designer of Observed by Us, and Dunst.
Coach creative director Stuart Vevers worked with the duo to create the line of T-shirts, hoodies, floral dresses and jeans whose inspiration was based on pieces found in Dunst’s closet. Key pieces include a wool pointelle crop top, overalls and a straw hat — each printed and embellished with original, hand-drawn illustrations by Herschko. Additionally, the pieces feature “storypatches,” a signature of Coach, in Herschko’s handwriting that tell the stories of illustrations in the collection.
“Creating this collection with Kirsten and Jessica was delightful,” said Vevers. “We got to celebrate our shared love of imagination and playfulness. Kirsten, and her style, have often been an inspiration for me. So to design alongside her and Jessica — and to blend their vivid storytelling and color with our own American heritage design language and craftsmanship — was really inspiring.”
Vevers added that he was introduced to the duo by a mutual friend and the collaboration “evolved quite naturally from there. I was immediately drawn to Jessica’s illustrations and their imaginative use of color and playful themes, but also to the way Kirsten and Jessica joyfully celebrate the beauty in the everyday — a theme I love to explore also. The collection is charming and pretty. The idiosyncratic embellishments feel both personal and expressive. There’s also a found quality and vintage feel that adds a sense of ease and cool.”
Vevers said what he likes most about working with other brands is that it allows him to try something new. “Every collaboration I’ve done is different,” he said. “I think that’s what I enjoy most about collaboration — it’s about trying something new, and working with someone else can give me a chance to challenge myself. Whether it’s with heroes of mine, contemporary artists or iconic imagery it’s also about an element of surprise. Something I’ve not done before.”
“We started Observed by Us to create clothing and other items with images that evoke a special, happy feeling and a sense of appreciation for both the natural and the man made,” said Herschko. “It was very fun to collaborate with Coach because, much like us, they see a world of possibility in the small details and have the ability to execute that perfectly.”
The collection will range in price from $20 to $595 and will be sold on the Coach website as well as in select Coach stores. — JEAN E. PALMIERI
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Four hundred guests will attend the spring 2024 show, where models will walk the runway in tropical print bikinis, shirts and seersucker suits. Yes, there will be Beach Boys on the soundtrack, as well as Beyoncé, and cocktails will be served — grapefruit basil martinis, which will be the featured drink at the new Tommy Bahama Miramonte Resort & Spa opening later this year in Indian Wells, California.
An unlikely product of the Pacific Northwest, Tommy Bahama was founded in 1992 by Bob Emfield and Tony Margolis, two garment business veterans who met in Seattle in the ’70s, when they were sales reps for Brittania Sportswear Ltd. The company is named after a character they invented after buying houses on Florida’s Gulf Coast, where they dreamed of living life as one long weekend.
Now owned by Oxford Industries, Tommy Bahama — which delivered top-line growth of 5 percent in the first quarter — has become a lifestyle empire that extends from coast to coast and now includes clothing and licensed accessories, home products such as rugs, bedding and upholstered furniture, restaurants — and soon, a hotel.
There’s a unified vision for it all.
For spring 2024, St. Barths was the seasonal inspiration for the 60-member design team based in Seattle, who travel to vacation locations for research trips. On the mood board are photos of the island’s red roofs, sunshine yellow mini Mokes, leafy patios and deep blue infinity pools.
“When I first started, the men’s, women’s and accessories teams didn’t really connect very much on the beginning of the season, and they all looked very different. So we started creating a seasonal destination,” explained design director Bradley O’Brien, who joined in 2014 after a decade at Ralph Lauren, four years at Old Navy, six at Lands’ End and four at Sperry Top-Sider. “We look at everything, from the architecture to the culture to the food and the artisans. We get a lot of inspiration from handicrafts, and flora and fauna of the particular area. We take lots and lots of photos and pull together concepts for the art department that really influences the color and the prints.”
The men’s and women’s collection will feature lots of novelty dresses, including a new Johnny Collar style; linen suiting; seersucker tops, skorts, bombers and blazers; swimwear, and stretch denim with sun protection. (Tommy Bahama has seals of approval from the Skin Cancer Foundation, and has raised more than $500,000 for the organization in its stores.)
“The great part about a runway is it’s not necessarily the real way, and so you can put things out there and style them in a way that makes people think, ‘Oh, I never thought of that.’ Like pairing a linen suit with a bikini,” she said.
The brand’s customer demographic is age 35 to 60, with the sweet spot in their 40s and 50s, and the women’s business is now growing faster than men’s. As a percentage of sales over the last five years, women’s has grown 53 percent, while men’s has grown 22 percent.
Dresses and knits are the two biggest categories and, surprisingly, women’s suiting is not far behind. ‘We’ve always done linen suiting for men and we can’t even keep it in stock now. There’s definitely a trend happening in women’s as well all around the blazer and the suit. So this is the first time that we’ll be offering really great suiting for her as well.”
Performancewear under the Island Zone franchise has also been key to the brand’s success, and the spring 2024 collection is taking inspiration from “court and course,” with clothing that can be worn from the golf course to the pickleball court.
“The fabrics keep you dry, they stretch, they’ve got great details, pockets and things that help you stay active,” said O’Brien, adding that the Palm Coast Polo is a top seller.
The brand has also hit with a woven fabric that’s perforated, used for camp shirts. “It looks like a silk camp shirt but it performs really well, is super lightweight and stretches and keeps you dry. It’s been so popular, we’re introducing it for women. That’s what’s fun about being a dual gender brand.”
Spring will also mark the debut of a performance seersucker fabric, alongside a traditional woven one, leaning into fashion’s return to prep and the old money trend.
“We absolutely look at the runway in the beginning of the season, and scour through some of the shows of the tried and true brands. Then we put it through the Tommy Bahama filters.…Our guest is not about fast fashion but wants to be relevant. And so if puff sleeves are definitely trending, we might put a puff sleeve on something that we already know she knows and loves in a fabrication that she already has in her closet to get her to buy into a new version.”
What are the Tommy Bahama filters?
“We talk about quality, artistry and craftsmanship, and especially in the imagery, we always want to show up looking like sun and sea and sky and sand. And then when it comes down to the product itself, it has to be effortless. Sometimes things will have one or two details too many.…You just want to be able to throw something on and feel super comfortable and relaxed,” O’Brien said. “And then the last thing that we say is we always want to have ‘a sprinkle of sand.’ It’s just a cute detail that makes the customer smile.”
For some fresh inspiration, the brand has partnered with the New York-based nonprofit Fashion Scholarship Fund on a design contest, and on Wednesday will award three $15,000 scholarships to students whose work will be included in the 2024 Tommy Bahama Artist Series.
“They’ll be representing their artwork and will have their apparel on mannequins, and everybody will be able to meet them and understand the inspiration,” O’Brien said. “Coming from the East Coast, and having a career at brands that are household names, I wanted Tommy Bahama to be a household name. And what better way than to gain awareness and recognition with these students? We just launched an internship program as well…so the talent of tomorrow wants to come and work here, too.”
One of the female executive’s proudest achievements has been elevating Tommy Bahama’s women’s profile. “It’s nice to see the perception is shifting,” said O’Brien, who favors the brand’s dresses, jeans and flirty tops for work. “And when you’re in stores, you also see families coming in. So it’s definitely a brand the entire family engages with.”
That’s thanks also to the Tommy Bahama Marlin Bars, which debuted way ahead of the latest wave of fashion-fronted restaurants like the Polo Bar and Tiffany Blue Box Café. Three more Marlin Bars are opening on the horizon.
“We do see that the stores that are attached to those, the sales are really, really strong in those doors. So the guest likes to come in and enjoy being a part of the brand and then shop it as well,” she said.
Soon they can also be able to live it at the Tommy Bahama Miramonte Resort & Spa, opening in November outside of Palm Springs, California, with 215 rooms, three pools, and a 12,000-square-foot spa.
“That’s going to be a big moment,” O’Brien said. “I was lucky enough to work with our home wallpaper and fabric licensee to help pick out all the fabrics and wallpapers for each of the suites and the rooms. And we are going to have our artists go down and create signature murals for them.”
The hotel property will feature a 1,200-square-foot retail store, even though it’s within miles of Tommy Bahama stores in both Palm Springs and Palm Desert. O’Brien said, “We’re thinking of it more as a lab, where we can test elevated product.”
Tommy for the big 4.0.
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