Cruise is in store, and spring 2023 will soon follow. But for designers on the never-ending collections treadmill, it’s time for pre-fall, the collection that sits on shop floors the longest. No wonder designers are sticking with trans-seasonal wardrobing, with key trends so far including minimalism, ’90s slip dressing, a new take on denim, and the modernized preppy polo shirt.
Here, WWD breaks down the top four trends of the season across the luxury and contemporary markets so far.
Minimalism
Minimalism’s omnipresence abounds. Sharply constructed sartorial ensembles and a neutral, sometimes monochromatic palette of purist white, grays and black resonated as a key choice, as seen from Thom Browne, R13’s Chris Leba, Nili Lotan, Norma Kamali and more. Similarly, the ubiquitous white shirt, as seen from Carolina Herrera to MM6, is a prominent layer for the season, at times becoming the core message, as well.
Suiting is also given the summer twist, while upholding minimalist codes in streamlined blazers paired with shorts from the short-short to Bermuda length.
Denim 2.0
Canadian tuxedos are reinvented for pre-fall to include a multitude of washes and shades (as seen from Ulla Johnson and Chanel), painterly finishes (from R13) and utility accents (à la 3.1 Phillip Lim). Styles ranged from the more DIY-inspired from Dsquared2 and RtA to the streamlined and sharp from Chloé, Victoria Beckham and Givenchy. After a spring season full of ’90s boxy cuts and baggy silhouettes, pre-fall’s denim styles offer a more classic, straight silhouette to carry through fall.
Slip Dressing
Nineties nostalgia permeates the pre-fall season, and the slipdress is back as a top trend. Designers are offering the look for day, à la lingerie-inspired styles with lace details and short hemlines, as well as for evening in elongated silhouettes with dressier finishes. The variety of color and fabrications of the vast assortment makes slip dressing one of the most dimensional trends so far.
Polos
The preppy look has been making a slow and steady return, popping up once again with the most iconic of preppy items: the polo shirt. The new take includes elongated styles, like Proenza Schouler’s column dress version; knit layers, from Chloé and Etro; the quintessential sporty polo, like Adeam’s white tennis style, and classic polo silhouettes with luxe oversized buttons.
Other preppy messages from pre-fall include pastel colors and plaid patterns — both perfect to provide the finishing touch to this American lifestyle trend.
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