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Pucci Travels to Moritz for Experiential Event

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ST. MORITZ, Switzerland — Whether in Capri or the glamorous St. Moritz, on the beach or under the snow-capped Alps, Camille Miceli’s energy, fun-loving approach and zest for life are unwavering and contagious.

Unveiling the Pucci x Fusalp collection over a three-day experience here, the artistic director of Emilio Pucci explained during an interview at the storied and luxury Badrutt’s Palace Hotel that she knew she wanted to do a skiwear collection since Day One — although at the same time she emphasized it’s entirely linked to the brand’s lifestyle concept.

“I wanted to stick to the story of Mr. Pucci, and St. Moritz is more Italian than Swiss, all the Milanese love coming here — and now I am a Milanese,  too,” said Miceli with a laugh. To be sure, the experience kicked off on Thursday and the town was teeming with Italians and plenty of visitors from Milan and nearby Como and Bergamo. Dec. 8 is a national holiday that follows the feast of Milan’s patron saint, Ambrose, a day earlier.

“I think it’s important to keep and emphasize the Italian side of Pucci,” said the designer.

There is also another reason for the tie-up with French skiwear specialist Fusalp: Pucci, who died in 1992, was a member of the Italian Olympic ski team in 1932. He began designing skiwear out of jersey fabrics in 1947 and opened his house in 1949.

“This is a tremendous opportunity and fits in perfectly with the Pucci history,” said Pucci chief executive officer Saar Debrouwere in her first interview since joining the company last July.

The Fusalp capsule is part of the collection called La Famiglia, and Debrouwere underscored that it is a key focus to “reach out to an extended audience,” while maintaining the sense of community, which this kind of experience fuels. “Being together, understanding the Pucci lifestyle is key — and who wouldn’t want to wear these colorful, joyful designs?”

Miceli also explained that there is a connection between her own family and that of the Lacoste family, a co-owner of Fusalp, which led to a “very easy and fluid collaboration.”

The capsule marks the 70th anniversary of Fusalp, blending fashion with technical expertise.

Miceli worked with Fusalp’s creative director Mathilde Lacoste, revisiting three best-sellers from the ski specialist — the Gardena jacket, the Elancia and Belalp ski pants and the Maria ski suit — with Pucci allover prints.

Miceli reissued three patterns that she employed for the summer collection unveiled in Capri in April with the goal of making them increasingly signature prints and recognizable as Pucci, “bringing them back season after season,” she said. They include the Marmo motif with black and shades of icy blue; the Iride pattern on the ski suit, and the Girandole.

“I want to establish and insist on these prints,” said Miceli.

The collection includes waterproof and protective materials, technical nylons and feathers in addition to thermals developed with “body mapping,” which give the effect of a contoured figure.

The core skiwear offer comprises eight pieces styled as three main looks, each characterized by three different color ranges and print variations. The après-ski proposal includes six heavy knitwear items and two padded ponchos.

Among the lineup of accessories accented with nylon Pucci trim are a cap, scarf, snood, ear warmers, and a polycarbonate helmet.

Miceli has been embracing the see now, buy now format, and the collection was available that same day, both online and in a selection of Pucci and Fusalp boutiques, as well as on Mytheresa.com, once again its exclusive online partner.

There are currently 11 Pucci stores, and Debrouwere, asked about the brand’s distribution, avoided choosing one specific channel to further expand, rather focusing on the different opportunities depending on the collection and the occasion.

In accordance with Miceli, she said that temporary stores are a viable outlet that can be further explored and in locations that relate to the Pucci lifestyle. In addition to a pop-up in St. Moritz in an art gallery, where the Pucci x Fusalp collection will be exhibited for 12 days, another temporary store was slated to open in Courchevel a few days later.

A Pucci x Fusalp look

“I like this idea of rushing to get to a collection that is available only for a few days, otherwise you’ve missed it,” said Miceli, adding that “people get bored so easily. And the concept of seasons is old-fashioned. We are addressing people in Brazil, Europe or Japan, meteorology is very boring and old, it doesn’t mean anything. It’s always summer somewhere for a new bathing suit.”

Indeed, Debrouwere is aware that Europe and the U.S. are strong markets for Pucci at the moment, but she is more interested in catching the attention of the clusters of customers, often traveling around the world.

“Where is my customer? Where can we develop our business more? People can buy anywhere when traveling, and we must pay attention,” she said.

Michael Kliger, CEO of Mytheresa, touted the experiential events endorsed by Miceli. “With Mytheresa you become part of a family, you participate in fashion and luxury, art and creativity, and it’s fun and joyful to bring together the family in beautiful locations — and Pucci equals Italy,” he said, echoing Miceli.

The event drew around 150 guests, including several Mytheresa top customers from around the world.

“It’s a real privilege to have this kind of experience,” mused Kliger. “Clienteling is so important, staying close to the customer, maintaining loyalty, and we started early on so we see the results,” continued the executive, pointing to 21 percent growth in Mytheresa’s sales in the third quarter.

He expressed pride in being the exclusive partner of the launch, saying that “the Pucci business is expanding and evolving. The collection has been out since this morning and we’ve already seen a good reaction to the designs,” noting that skiing in particular has become “very popular” with Gen Zers.

Miceli has been staying away from traditional fashion shows, unveiling her first designs for Pucci over a fun-packed weekend of lunches, yoga classes and partying last April in Capri, the jet-set island where founder Emilio Pucci opened his initial boutique in 1951 — and offering plenty of Instagrammable moments, such as models lounging on towels doing synchronized leg lifts.

“I am more interested in the production of images — we are living in the time of images, after all, and in offering the point of view of different talents, photographers and models, which is far more accurate than a fashion show,” said the designer.

Debrouwere was attracted by Miceli’s “way of thinking of Pucci as a lifestyle brand, in a fun, positive and open way.”

The respect and strong relationship between Miceli and Debrouwere is palpable. The latter brings to Pucci experience in product, merchandising and sales.  She joined the Italian brand from Shanghai-based fashion house Icicle, where she had been executive vice president, design and product, since 2020 — and she admitted that being in China throughout the lockdowns was a very instructive experience.

Before that, she worked for eight years at Swedish fashion house Acne Studios, which she joined in 2012 as ready-to-wear director, studio and product, ultimately becoming chief product officer in 2014.

A graduate of the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Ghent, where she received a master’s degree in contemporary art and photography, the Belgian Debrouwere started her career as a project manager at Ad!dict Creative Lab, a management consultancy specialized in customer experience. She would later join fashion brand A.F. Vandevorst in sales roles, and would be recruited in 2009 by Raf Simons as his collection director.

“Saar knows exactly what she wants, and she has a clever way of getting to it, in her nice but strong way,” said Miceli of the soft-spoken executive.

“Camille is also very strong, and we look at the world in the same way, we are aligned and there is chemistry,” chimed in Debrouwere. “I truly believe that there must be a good match with the creative director; it’s the only way it can work.”

While admitting she was still in a “discovery and observation phase,” she offered that she is “a big fan of simplicity and efficiency. Collaboration and communication equals success and this is key in all companies.”

At Pucci, which has been controlled by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton since 2000, and rebooted as a resort-focused brand, more collaborations will follow, “if Camille feels they make sense, if the occasion arrives,” said Debrouwere.

Miceli said she is still mulling the location for the next collection, which will be unveiled at the end of April or in May.

“Beauty in the end wins, and we have to have the right product with the right story and the right package, otherwise it makes no sense,” said Miceli, who was accessories creative director at Louis Vuitton before joining Pucci last September. “We are a resort and lifestyle brand: We show the clothes in a context.”

Reports /TrainViral/

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Zara advert accused of resembling Gaza images

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Zara is facing a backlash about an advertising campaign which some people claim resembles images from the Israel-Gaza war.

The Advertising Standards Authority (ASA) said it had received 50 complaints about the social media campaign called “The Jacket”.

One image shows the model holding a mannequin wrapped in what appears to be white plastic.

The BBC has contacted Zara for comment but the company has not responded.

In a series of images, the model is pictured against a background of cracked stones, damaged statues and broken plasterboard.

Some on social media have suggested they are similar to images emerging from Gaza following Israeli bombing in retaliation for the 7 October attack by Hamas when 1,200 people were killed.

The Hamas-run health ministry in Gaza has said Israel has killed about 18,000 people.

The campaign for Zara’s Atelier line is no longer on the company’s app or website.

Some images appear to have been removed from Zara’s Instagram account, though others remain.

In the comments several users call for a boycott of the firm.

One Zara shop in Spain has a window display with some props similar to those used in the campaign.

The company describes its thinking behind “The Jacket” as “an exercise in concentrated design that is conceived to showcase the finest aspects of Zara’s creative and manufacturing capabilities, Zara Atelier offers one garment, six ways – and with unlimited possibilities”.

A spokesperson for the ASA said: “We’ve received 50 complaints about this ad. Complainants argue that the imagery references the current Israel-Hamas conflict and is offensive.”

The spokesperson added that the ASA was reviewing the complaints but was not currently investigating the advert.

Recently, M&S apologised after the retailer was accused of posting an Instagram photo of Christmas party hats in the colours of the Palestinian flag on fire.

The ASA said that it had received 116 complaints about the image.

It said that following a review, it determined that M&S had not broken ASA rules and “no additional investigation was warranted”.

Nevertheless, M&S said it had “removed the post following feedback and we apologise for any unintentional hurt caused”.

Zara’s Spanish parent company, Inditex, is scheduled to announce its latest quarterly results on Wednesday.

— Reports /TrainViral

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Gigi Hadid Returns for Self-Portrait

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GIGI, PART DEUX: Gigi Hadid’s collaboration with Self-Portrait continues, as she appears in the brand’s latest fall 2023 campaign shot in Paris by British photographer Tyrone Lebon and styled by Marie Chaix.

The contemporary fashion label, which counts Kate Middleton, Naomi Campbell, Jennifer Coolidge and Blackpink among its fans, had worked with Hadid in London and New York on previous campaigns, and according to Han Chong, brand founder and creative director, “it felt only right that we join her in Paris for our latest campaign shoot against a backdrop renowned for elegance and romance.”

Gigi Hadid stars in Self-Portrait fall 2023 campaign
Gigi Hadid stars in Self-Portrait’s fall 2023 campaign. COURTESY OF SELF-PORTRAIT

In one of the shots from the campaign, Hadid poses behind a grand classical wrought iron balcony while wearing a fuchsia tweed jacket with a matching bar top and a pleated skirt from the brand’s fall 2023 collection. In a separate image, Hadid gazes down at the camera in a sequined asymmetric aquamarine dress.

Commenting on the latest campaign, Chong praised Hadid as “everything the modern Self-Portrait woman stands for — free, spirited, and joyful.”

“Being able to shoot in Paris is always such a dream…it’s one of my favorite cities in the world, filled with so much charm and magic. And to be able to shoot with the Self-Portrait team who have become such incredible partners and friends, made it an even more memorable experience,” Hadid added.

Launching together with the release of the campaign, the fall 2023 collection will hit stores worldwide from Tuesday.

For fall, Chong offered a balanced collection that caters to both the sensual new vibe, as well as those who buy into straightforward pretty, and elegant outfits for their everyday lives.

Standouts in the collection included sequinned, embellished high-glam evening options, many of which came with sleeves, a detail that’s appreciated in the modest community.

The denim pieces were cut for a younger and cooler audience, while the abundant supply of tweed jackets and coordinated bra tops and skirts have already won over fans including Selena Gomez, Princess Beatrice and Zhao Liying, Self-Portrait’s first Chinese brand ambassador. — TIANWEI ZHANG

JUMPING THE GUN: Kirsten Dunst couldn’t help herself from leaking the news about her upcoming collaboration with Coach when actress and comedian Ayo Edebiri was spotted wearing pieces from the Observed by Us x Coach line.

The actress shared the news on Instagram with an image showing Edebiri wearing a white top with dinosaurs on it.

A look from Coach x Observed By Us.
A look from Coach x Observed by Us. COURTESY OF COACH.

The collection, which will be released to the rest of the world on Wednesday, features ready-to-wear, bags, footwear and accessories printed and embellished with original, hand-drawn illustrations by Jessica Herschko, a Los Angeles-based illustrator and designer of Observed by Us, and Dunst.

Coach creative director Stuart Vevers worked with the duo to create the line of T-shirts, hoodies, floral dresses and jeans whose inspiration was based on pieces found in Dunst’s closet. Key pieces include a wool pointelle crop top, overalls and a straw hat — each printed and embellished with original, hand-drawn illustrations by Herschko. Additionally, the pieces feature “storypatches,” a signature of Coach, in Herschko’s handwriting that tell the stories of illustrations in the collection.

Coach x Observed by Us
The collection will be sold at Coach stores and online.

“Creating this collection with Kirsten and Jessica was delightful,” said Vevers. “We got to celebrate our shared love of imagination and playfulness. Kirsten, and her style, have often been an inspiration for me. So to design alongside her and Jessica — and to blend their vivid storytelling and color with our own American heritage design language and craftsmanship — was really inspiring.”

Vevers added that he was introduced to the duo by a mutual friend and the collaboration “evolved quite naturally from there. I was immediately drawn to Jessica’s illustrations and their imaginative use of color and playful themes, but also to the way Kirsten and Jessica joyfully celebrate the beauty in the everyday — a theme I love to explore also. The collection is charming and pretty. The idiosyncratic embellishments feel both personal and expressive. There’s also a found quality and vintage feel that adds a sense of ease and cool.”

Vevers said what he likes most about working with other brands is that it allows him to try something new. “Every collaboration I’ve done is different,” he said. “I think that’s what I enjoy most about collaboration — it’s about trying something new, and working with someone else can give me a chance to challenge myself. Whether it’s with heroes of mine, contemporary artists or iconic imagery it’s also about an element of surprise. Something I’ve not done before.”

“We started Observed by Us to create clothing and other items with images that evoke a special, happy feeling and a sense of appreciation for both the natural and the man made,” said Herschko. “It was very fun to collaborate with Coach because, much like us, they see a world of possibility in the small details and have the ability to execute that perfectly.”

The collection will range in price from $20 to $595 and will be sold on the Coach website as well as in select Coach stores. — JEAN E. PALMIERI

Reports /TrainViral/

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Tommy Bahama Marks 30 Years

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Four hundred guests will attend the spring 2024 show, where models will walk the runway in tropical print bikinis, shirts and seersucker suits. Yes, there will be Beach Boys on the soundtrack, as well as Beyoncé, and cocktails will be served — grapefruit basil martinis, which will be the featured drink at the new Tommy Bahama Miramonte Resort & Spa opening later this year in Indian Wells, California.

An unlikely product of the Pacific Northwest, Tommy Bahama was founded in 1992 by Bob Emfield and Tony Margolis, two garment business veterans who met in Seattle in the ’70s, when they were sales reps for Brittania Sportswear Ltd. The company is named after a character they invented after buying houses on Florida’s Gulf Coast, where they dreamed of living life as one long weekend.

Now owned by Oxford Industries, Tommy Bahama — which delivered top-line growth of 5 percent in the first quarter — has become a lifestyle empire that extends from coast to coast and now includes clothing and licensed accessories, home products such as rugs, bedding and upholstered furniture, restaurants — and soon, a hotel.

There’s a unified vision for it all.

For spring 2024, St. Barths was the seasonal inspiration for the 60-member design team based in Seattle, who travel to vacation locations for research trips. On the mood board are photos of the island’s red roofs, sunshine yellow mini Mokes, leafy patios and deep blue infinity pools.

“When I first started, the men’s, women’s and accessories teams didn’t really connect very much on the beginning of the season, and they all looked very different. So we started creating a seasonal destination,” explained design director Bradley O’Brien, who joined in 2014 after a decade at Ralph Lauren, four years at Old Navy, six at Lands’ End and four at Sperry Top-Sider. “We look at everything, from the architecture to the culture to the food and the artisans. We get a lot of inspiration from handicrafts, and flora and fauna of the particular area. We take lots and lots of photos and pull together concepts for the art department that really influences the color and the prints.”

The men’s and women’s collection will feature lots of novelty dresses, including a new Johnny Collar style; linen suiting; seersucker tops, skorts, bombers and blazers; swimwear, and stretch denim with sun protection. (Tommy Bahama has seals of approval from the Skin Cancer Foundation, and has raised more than $500,000 for the organization in its stores.)

“The great part about a runway is it’s not necessarily the real way, and so you can put things out there and style them in a way that makes people think, ‘Oh, I never thought of that.’ Like pairing a linen suit with a bikini,” she said.

The brand’s customer demographic is age 35 to 60, with the sweet spot in their 40s and 50s, and the women’s business is now growing faster than men’s. As a percentage of sales over the last five years, women’s has grown 53 percent, while men’s has grown 22 percent.

Dresses and knits are the two biggest categories and, surprisingly, women’s suiting is not far behind. ‘We’ve always done linen suiting for men and we can’t even keep it in stock now. There’s definitely a trend happening in women’s as well all around the blazer and the suit. So this is the first time that we’ll be offering really great suiting for her as well.”

Performancewear under the Island Zone franchise has also been key to the brand’s success, and the spring 2024 collection is taking inspiration from “court and course,” with clothing that can be worn from the golf course to the pickleball court.

“The fabrics keep you dry, they stretch, they’ve got great details, pockets and things that help you stay active,” said O’Brien, adding that the Palm Coast Polo is a top seller.

The brand has also hit with a woven fabric that’s perforated, used for camp shirts. “It looks like a silk camp shirt but it performs really well, is super lightweight and stretches and keeps you dry. It’s been so popular, we’re introducing it for women. That’s what’s fun about being a dual gender brand.”

Spring will also mark the debut of a performance seersucker fabric, alongside a traditional woven one, leaning into fashion’s return to prep and the old money trend.

“We absolutely look at the runway in the beginning of the season, and scour through some of the shows of the tried and true brands. Then we put it through the Tommy Bahama filters.…Our guest is not about fast fashion but wants to be relevant. And so if puff sleeves are definitely trending, we might put a puff sleeve on something that we already know she knows and loves in a fabrication that she already has in her closet to get her to buy into a new version.”

Tommy Bahama Spring 2024

What are the Tommy Bahama filters?

“We talk about quality, artistry and craftsmanship, and especially in the imagery, we always want to show up looking like sun and sea and sky and sand. And then when it comes down to the product itself, it has to be effortless. Sometimes things will have one or two details too many.…You just want to be able to throw something on and feel super comfortable and relaxed,” O’Brien said. “And then the last thing that we say is we always want to have ‘a sprinkle of sand.’ It’s just a cute detail that makes the customer smile.”

For some fresh inspiration, the brand has partnered with the New York-based nonprofit Fashion Scholarship Fund on a design contest, and on Wednesday will award three $15,000 scholarships to students whose work will be included in the 2024 Tommy Bahama Artist Series.

“They’ll be representing their artwork and will have their apparel on mannequins, and everybody will be able to meet them and understand the inspiration,” O’Brien said. “Coming from the East Coast, and having a career at brands that are household names, I wanted Tommy Bahama to be a household name. And what better way than to gain awareness and recognition with these students? We just launched an internship program as well…so the talent of tomorrow wants to come and work here, too.”

Tommy Bahama Spring 2024

One of the female executive’s proudest achievements has been elevating Tommy Bahama’s women’s profile. “It’s nice to see the perception is shifting,” said O’Brien, who favors the brand’s dresses, jeans and flirty tops for work. “And when you’re in stores, you also see families coming in. So it’s definitely a brand the entire family engages with.”

That’s thanks also to the Tommy Bahama Marlin Bars, which debuted way ahead of the latest wave of fashion-fronted restaurants like the Polo Bar and Tiffany Blue Box Café. Three more Marlin Bars are opening on the horizon.

“We do see that the stores that are attached to those, the sales are really, really strong in those doors. So the guest likes to come in and enjoy being a part of the brand and then shop it as well,” she said.

Soon they can also be able to live it at the Tommy Bahama Miramonte Resort & Spa, opening in November outside of Palm Springs, California, with 215 rooms, three pools, and a 12,000-square-foot spa.

“That’s going to be a big moment,” O’Brien said. “I was lucky enough to work with our home wallpaper and fabric licensee to help pick out all the fabrics and wallpapers for each of the suites and the rooms. And we are going to have our artists go down and create signature murals for them.”

The hotel property will feature a 1,200-square-foot retail store, even though it’s within miles of Tommy Bahama stores in both Palm Springs and Palm Desert. O’Brien said, “We’re thinking of it more as a lab, where we can test elevated product.”

Tommy for the big 4.0.

Reports /TrainViral/

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